SAN ANDRES CHURCH

Iglesia de San Andrés

There is no documentation on how the San Andrés church originated, as is the case for most churches built prior to the 15th century, but the historian Juan Ramón de Iturriza wrote as follows in 1793 in his General History of Vizcaya:
"ZALDUA HAS A CHURCH TO SAN ANDRÉS APOSTOL, BUILT IN THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY BY THE LOCAL PARISH ON A SLOPE KNOWN AS ZALDUEGUI, FROM THE REMAINS OF THE SAN JUAN DE BERRIZ CHURCH, AS WAS THE TRADITION".
This dates its construction in the 13th century, with an extension in the 16th century, and addition of a belfry in 1777 to a design by Ventura Rodríguez. Next to this the old communal bell tower built in 1807, which was used for the clock, machinery and weights, which have now disappeared.
The church was rebuilt during the first half of the 16th century. It has a nave and a slightly narrower octagonal sanctuary. The structure would have had an open-truss tiled roof until at least 1550, when it was covered over by three sturdy vaults of wooden tiercelons, with heart shapes and curved ribbing with modern keystones. The roof was supported by eight stone corbels and two wooden corbels, also supporting a free-standing post structure, using a bridge fan to brace the rib arrangement.
The Zaldibar church is a genuine model of balance between correct form and sound building technique, helped along by the impeccable wooden vaulting of a modest Gothic church, with two interconnected portals on the northern and western facades, with flagstones and tiled roofs on wooden columns.
The restoration project carried out in 1991 revealed the natural materials used to build the vault branchings, although it conceals the wooden side panels.
It was a shame that the project was not used to restore the panelling by removing paint or building new panels to show the wood, which would have added quality and architectural beauty.
The main altar features the image of San Andrés Apostol. The other two smaller altars have San Esteban to the right and the Rosary Virgin to the left. Prior to restoration work, these images had been on the side altars, which have since disappeared. The pulpit and the font were also moved from the original locations – the pulpit was moved to the presbytery, and the second was positioned next to the San Esteban altar.
The church was the property of the Zaldibar dynasty over several hundred years. They were the patrons of the church until 1802, as we may observe on the gravestone found during restoration work in 1991:
renovated in the year 1802. To the same level, site of the house of zaldibar, patron of this parish.
When the old platform was removed, completely moth-eaten, 47 stone sepulchres were also found with thick oak lids, most containing human remains.
The sepulchres may be found underneath the chancel, from the centre of the church to the rear door. At the sanctuary we find the Zaldibar gravestone. All these features are located under the new platform, which was given preservation treatment before it was set in.

Andra Mari de Zaldibar

The image of Andra Mari comes from the Santiago de Gazaga church, where it remained until, on 22 February 1927, it was bought for 350 pesetas from the priest, Benito Zabala, by the conservationist Jesús Larrea, later director of the Basque Archaeology, Ethnography and History Museum.
The image of the Virgin and the Baby Jesus is dated at the beginning of the 14th century. It is a polychrome wood carving, height 1.03 metres.
The image belongs to the Basque Museum, and was brought to Zaldibar in 1993 when restoration work had been completed on the church. It remained there for three days, and is now in the Sacred Art Museum in Bilbao. The image used at the parish church is a replica of the original.
The author of «Andra Mari», R. P. Lizarralde, says the following concerning the image:
WE DESIGNED THIS FINE EFFIGY AS ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL GOTHIC SCULPTURES IN BIZKAIA. NO OTHER CREATION CAN MATCH THE SERENITY OF ITS EXPRESSION, THE PEACEFUL SPIRITUALITY OF BOTH FIGURES.
The origins of the hymn to Andra Mari are as follows: in 1989 the parish priest, Iñaki Albizu, asked me if I could obtain stamps with the photo in the book «La Anteiglesia de Zaldibar». When I said I could, he gave me a poem by Grazian Adema, «Zalduby», and stamps were then printed and distributed.
In 1991 the accordion player Jose Mari Iriondo wrote music for the poem, and we have been singing it in church ever since. Iriondo changed the first word of the poem, Euskaldunek (Basques), to Zaldiharko (from Zaldihar). Grazian Adema was born in Senpere in 1828 and died in Baiona in 1907. He was canon of Baiona Cathedral, and wrote many poems in Basque.

Gothic sculpture

One of the few works of art in our town is to be found in the parish church. This is a sandstone sculpture from the last Ogive period. It is probably the altar or altar-piece of the original church, which was a feature of the construction prior to extension work during the 16th century. It was apparently part of the north portal wall. Subsequently, since it interfered with local people playing pelota, it was moved to the west portal wall, where it remained until 1992. Previous restoration work was adapted to position the sculpture inside the church as a protective measure, inside the chapel as its altar-piece.
The centre of the sculpture features the cross of San Andrés, bordered with cord and foliage and a crucifix beneath a canopy, with two angels at the sides, one of them holding a chalice and the other holding flowers. On both sides, protected by a further two canopies, there are two figures, one of them partially naked, the hands praying, with a long habit, and an object in either hand. Both of the figures rest on pedestals topped by the shafts or columns with pinnacles flanking the figures.
Next to the cross, there are figures on both sides next to the cross – we see a boat with a mast and a pilgrim on a horse, and also a scallop or shell. The chapel was paid for by the widow of Alexio de Urmeneta, who died at the spa in 1885. His remains are still there.

The Camino de Santiago pilgrimage

There are a host of churches and chapels with links to the two Camino de Santiago routes in Bizkaia, along the coast and further inland - Santiago, Santa Maria Magdalena, San Martin de Tours, Santa Marina, San Antonio etc.
It seems no accident that three of these are to be found in Zaldibar: Santa Marina, San Martin and Santiago. We also have the old Garita hospital, probably used to tend to pilgrims, and the parish church also has a Gothic sculpture featuring, among other things, the shell and the pilgrim, pointing to the presence of those moving between Zaldibar and Compostela.
The coastal route came into Bizkaia via Arnoate at the Magdalena chapel and then continued through Markina, Zenarruza and Gernika across to Bilbao. The inland route had two starting points in Gipuzkoa: one via Ermua, and then along the Eitzaga road to Zaldibar, Berriz and Durango, and another which started in Elorrio and continued through Abadiño to Durango. At this point pilgrims could choose between two options, the route through Urkiola and Otxandio towards Gasteiz-Vitoria, linking up with the San Adrián road from Irún, or simply continuing from Durango to Bilbao via Amorebieta and Galdakao.
From Bilbao there were three routes: towards Santander via Portugalete and Muskiz, towards Burgos via Güeñes, Balmaseda and El Berrón, or to Burgos via Arrigorriaga, Llodio and Orduña, to link up with the French route in Burgos.
The coastal route crosses Bizkaia from east to west. Pilgrims arriving from Gipuzkoa joined the route at the divide between the Deba and Artibai rivers. The Maalaka cross and the Magdalena church between Gipuzkoa and Bizkaia may be assumed to be the start of the Camino de Santiago in Bizkaia.

Bell tower

The bell tower in the parish church has four bells, one on each side of the tower. There are two large, fixed bells, and two tilting bells, all with their own operating mechanisms, electrically operated from the vestry.
The sound of the bell has been attributed with a special feature as protection against lightning and hailstones, and so it was the custom to ring the bells of the churches and chapels when storms approached. The religious pealing of the bells announced the impending danger, and was also a sign for the prayers which were said at such times in the church or around its portal. This was the case at Zaldibar, where prayers were said in the portal opposite the rear door on the western side of the building. Thus it was that in some villages the local people believed that the sound of the bell warded off storms or hail.
Down through history the bells have carried out important social functions, particularly in small villages with farmhouses scattered round about, far from the centre of the village. In this way, as the farmers went about their daily business in the fields or the mountains, they knew what time it was, and were informed of other events by the pealing of the communal bells.
They were also used to report farmhouse fires or fires in the mountain or in stables, quickly bringing local people to the scene with buckets to lend disinterested assistance. It was also the custom, on the eve of a holiday, and every Saturday, at midday and dusk, for the bells to joyfully announce that the next day was a holiday. They were also rung at midday and dusk to indicate prayers or, when a local resident died, the pealing of bells told local people if it was a child, a man or a woman who had died.
In exceptional circumstances, they were also used during the civil war from 1936 to 1939. The bell tower was used as a lookout post to observe German planes making tragic and painful incursions around Otxandio, Durango, Eibar and Gernika from Burgos. As soon as the lookout spotted them, he would ring the bells to warn villagers, and allow them to take cover in the air raid shelters. In Zaldibar the bells are still used for the time, for local deaths, to inform locals of masses and funerals, and also to announce Sundays and major local holidays.
The bells were rung by the local sexton, and here the function has been carried out over the last seventy-five years by two people; Leandro Zabala, for most of this period and subsequently by Ibon Garitazelaia – our two most recent bellringers.

OUR CHAPELS

The entire Basque Country is peppered with small chapels, in rural areas and in the mountains. Bizkaia has around 500 of them, and there are 92 in the Durango area.
Those of us who appreciate this legacy from our forefathers have the satisfaction and opportunity of researching ethnological and historical aspects to ascertain even small facts to shed light on the darkness of their old walls, these humble country chapels which hold so much historical interest.
Thanks to a number of people and institutions fond of their cultural and spiritual heritage, over the last twenty-five years reconstruction and restoration work has been carried out on many of the chapels, in addition to regular maintenance.
We cannot forget the social and cultural influence of chapels down through the years, bringing together families and friends during festivities, meetings during mass, then sword dances and aurresku dances, then the family meal with bertsolari poets, country sports and local fiestas.
Everyone´s help is needed to preserve the cultural heritage of our country chapels.

San Martín

This chapel is located in Plaza de San Martín in the centre of town. On 5 October 1847, it was visited by the bishop of Calahorra and La Calzada, Pablo García.
The present chapel was built in 1862, funded by the Town Hall and local people to replace an older version at the same location. It underwent restoration work in 1977, and is in a good state of repair. In days gone by, prayers were said between the parish church and the chapel on the day of St. Marcos the Evangelist.
San Martin is held on the Sunday following 8 July, and this is also known as the summer San Andrés festival. The festivities consist of a mass at the chapel, dancing and country sports.

San Lorenzo

The San Lorenzo chapel is in the Urizar district, about 800 metres from Plaza de San Martín. It is located on a hill with an extraordinary panoramic view.
It is quite an old chapel, badly needing restoration, a wooden fence to the right, similar to the fence on the left, and a wooden belfry for the bell.
Mass is now only held here on 10 August, the saint´s day. The 31 July mass disappeared when the custom of prayers to the saint fell into disuse. The image of San Lorenzo was returned to the church on San Ignacio´s day, and then brought back to the chapel on 10 August after the novenary.

Santiago

This is located in the Gazaga district, about 1,800 metres from Plaza de San Martín, at an approximate height of 350 metres.
This is a 16th century chapel with a semicircular door arch formed by an impressive sandstone arch and a hip roof supporting the wooden belfry and its bells. It was restored in 1985, and is in a good state of repair.
Ascension prayers used to be said on the road from the parish church.
Mass is held on saints´ days: Santiago and Santa Ana.

Santa Marina

This has a privileged location in the Goierri district, with a marvellous panoramic view of the cresting of the Durango area and the Gorbeia mountain range.
The original chapel was located on the peak of the Ganguren mountain, and the present chapel was blessed on 18 July 1615. The image of the saint was placed there after it had been carried on a religious procession from the chapel at Santiago de Gazaga.
Prayers would be said on the road from the parish church on St. George´s day, 23 April.
Its appearance would be considerably improved by a wooden tower for the bell.
Mass is held on the saint´s day, 18 July, and the following Sunday, with dancing, country sports and general festivities.

San Pedro

This is located in the Eitzaga district on a hill next to the motorway, about 350 metres outside town.
This 16th century chapel is run by the Ermua parish church, in view of its close proximity.
The main facade has a semicircular door arch, and the structure also has a chancel. The double pitch roof supports a wooden belfry and the bell itself. It underwent extensive restoration work in 1986, and is in a very good state of repair.
Mass is held on the saint´s day, 29 June, and the following Sunday. San Gregorio is also celebrated on 9 May. Dancing, country sports and festivities.

San Lorenzo

This is located in the Sallabente district, near the main road between Ermua and Eibar.
Since 1969, the chapel has been used as a church for the parish, and carries out the sacraments. Under civil law it forms part of Zaldibar, but falls within the ecclesiastic jurisdiction of Ermua.
In 1955, considerable restoration work was carried out, and a small pelota frontón was built onto the chapel. It has a double pitch roof, with brick belfry and bell, a large chancel and a portal on the main facade. The Zaldibar choir sang at the main mass after restoration work had been completed.
San Lorenzo is celebrated on 10 August, with a mass for the saint, games for children, country sports, pelota and general festivities.

San Miguel

This is located in the Okango district, close to the town and next to the Mendibe farmhouse. It is part of Berriz and is run by the Zaldibar parish authorities.
The main facade has a semicircular door arch, and the structure also has a chancel, a keel arch window, and a portal runs across the entire southern and eastern facades. The hipped roof supports the brick belfry, which replaced the original wooden structure.
It was restored in 1972, and is in a very good state of repair.
The image of San Fausto from the chapel which is no longer standing was stolen in 1963 along with the San Miguel image.
Mass is heard on 29 September, San Miguel, and the following Sunday. There is also mass on the first Sunday in May, on the festival known as San Miguel-Txiki. It was on this date that prayers were held for the saint.

Chapels no longer standing

There were another two chapels at Zaldibar, neither of which is still standing.
One of these was the San Cristóbal, in the Ulantzu area, about a kilometre from the Santa Marina chapel. It was demolished in 1799, and the image of the saint was taken to the parish church.
The chapel was demolished following an agreement reached by the church and town hall authorities in view of its location and the use to which it was put by criminals and grazing cattle. Permission was obtained from the Bishopric of Calahorra and La Calzada, and arrangements were made for the image to be taken away to the church, and for a cross to be erected at the former site of the chapel.
The other chapel was the San Fausto in Aranguren, not far from the Zalduegigoitia farmhouse in Berriz, although it was under the ecclesiastic jurisdiction of Zaldibar.
In 1793 the Bishop of Calahorra and La Calzada ordered the chapel to be demolished and all its properties sold at public auction to help pay for work on the new sepulchres at the San Andrés parish church. The image of the saint was taken to the San Miguel chapel in Okango, where it was stolen together with the image of San Miguel in 1963.